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      <h1 class="post-title">2019夏末呼伦贝尔行(1)：莫日格勒、额尔古纳</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2019-10-24 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
            </div>
          <span class="more-meta"> 约 2472 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 5 分钟 </span>
        <span id="busuanzi_container_page_pv" class="more-meta"> <span id="busuanzi_value_page_pv"><img src="/img/spinner.svg" alt="spinner.svg"/></span> 次阅读 </span>
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  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
  <div class="post-toc-content always-active">
    <nav id="TableOfContents">
  <ul>
    <li><a href="#筹备">筹备</a></li>
    <li><a href="#行程概述">行程概述</a></li>
    <li><a href="#第一日">第一日</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#海拉尔">​海拉尔</a></li>
        <li><a href="#金帐汗草原和莫日格勒河">金帐汗草原和莫日格勒河</a></li>
        <li><a href="#额尔古纳">额尔古纳</a></li>
      </ul>
    </li>
  </ul>
</nav>
  </div>
</div>
    <div class="post-content">
      <div class="admonition abstract"><p class="admonition-title">缘起</p>
<p>过去两年的盛夏避暑行动都遭到了无情的失败。无论上山还是下水，但凡踏不出包邮区，就必遭烧烤，所谓“凡日月所照，江河所致，皆为热土”（误）。看来，非远走高飞不可。批阅了多个公号后，领导默默发下了「草原避暑」的宏愿。</p>
<p>​过了400mm等降水量线就都是牧区/荒漠，茫茫大几百万平方公里。具体该去哪个草原呢？</p>
<p>锡林郭勒、科尔沁离帝都太近，恐怕排满了自驾游的帝都人民（谁承想，他们竟开始流行去【激情的】阿拉善了嘿）。伊犁固然很美，可惜太远，毕竟只有三五天预算。于是只剩下一个备选——呼伦贝尔。</p>
</div>
<p></p>
<h2 id="筹备">筹备</h2>
<p>自打某综艺节目带火后，呼伦贝尔的旅游产品就很丰富了，淘宝上一搜一大把。​订了个8月下旬的包车自由行线路，费用分两部分：</p>
<ul>
<li>【一口价部分】一辆面包车+一枚司机（覆盖沿途路费、油费、住宿及部分景点门票），及</li>
<li>【额外自理部分】餐饮和合约以外景点门票、沿途承担司机餐食。​​</li>
</ul>
<div class="admonition question"><p class="admonition-title">为什么选8月下旬？</p>
<p>因为亲子游产品季节波动强，暑假将届尾声，价格比较实惠。</p>
</div>
<div class="admonition question"><p class="admonition-title">为什么包车而不自驾？</p>
<p>因为草原上GPS和4G信号都不太灵，路况、地情难测，人生地不熟瞎开容易迷路/出事故。（后来的确听闻北京自驾客举家翻车）​</p>
</div>
<p>和行程本身相比，机票开销是个大头。上海到北京或哈尔滨的机票都不算贵，但再另行转机去呼伦贝尔就不便宜了。呼伦贝尔不通高铁，所以飞机转高铁的方案也行不通。最后只能选红眼直达航班，从浦东出发（便宜个两三百文）。归程也是较差的时段，凌晨3点落地。至于从家到机场这四十多公里来回怎么办呢？</p>
<p>——自驾。</p>
<p>这么说来也算跟“自驾游”搭了点边。一种“自由支配我的旅行”的高级感顿时油然而生。​</p>
<p>要不然，怎么有机会大清早跑40公里去飞机场看日出，呢。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4BI2839f3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 飞机尾翼旁初升的咸蛋黄，不，朝阳</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h2 id="行程概述">行程概述</h2>
<p>高德地图做了个（半吊子）「路书」功能，可以把行程明细提前规划出来。戳 <a href="http://ditu.amap.com/roadbook/5db06364be47d50747e66c6f"><strong>这里</strong></a> 就可以看到本次旅程的全貌。</p>
<p>之所以说它半吊子，是因为点到点之间的路线是自动安排的，不能自己调整。这算什么路书？跟Google几百年前就实现的 <a href="http://drive.google.com/open?id=1RYJPiZtcio1QdIFSl7CcJ_NF38R-ZHxh&amp;usp=sharing">My Maps</a> (需翻墙访问) 功能一比，差距还是很大的。下面是截图。Google退出中国那么多年了，依然能接近正确地规划出第3段路程，而高德却让我沿着第2段路回到海拉尔，再开去黑山头。你可拉倒吧。</p>
<p>其实我本来是想骂百度的。不过百度干脆没做这个功能，机智俭省地避免了这种尴尬。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y5kYG9DDed.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | Google Maps路书</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>行程一共5段，围海拉尔兜了一圈。1、4、5是草原地貌，2、3是森林地貌。这是呼伦贝尔经典的内圈动线。中圈路线往外扩一层，东跨过大兴安岭。外圈更邪乎，花十天半个月，跑到俄罗斯境内去。根据我在内圈的观感，中圈和外圈都挺值得试试。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">行程方案</p>
<ul>
<li>我们租到的是一辆金杯。若预算抬高点，可以租更好的越野车，甚至房车。路上见到一个房车车队，很拉风。值得尝试。</li>
<li>司机餐食，直接上桌一起吃就行了。风险共担的结果，司机也不会愿意去难吃的馆子。</li>
</ul>
</div>
<h2 id="第一日">第一日</h2>
<p>北上的决策是英明的。上海高温黄色警报，呼伦贝尔只有20度。刚巧雨后初晴，天青如洗，十分宜人。</p>
<div class="admonition note"><p class="admonition-title">科普时间</p>
  ​
<p>呼伦贝尔面积很大，得名于呼伦湖与贝尔湖，在蒙古语里分别意为“水獭”和“雄水獭”。贝尔湖如今大半归蒙古，历史上叫“捕鱼儿海”，就是明初蓝玉全歼北元主力的地方。表面看这片地方地广人稀荒郊野岭，但细算起来，呼伦贝尔是深刻影响中国历史的东胡-鲜卑-蒙古系民族的火种地。</p>
<p>隋唐帝国本质上是鲜卑和汉族融合而成的。日后长期压制宋朝的契丹，是被拓跋鲜卑击败的鲜卑宇文部和柔然部后裔。威震欧亚的蒙古人呢？柔然部的一支北遁到呼伦湖一带，拖拓跋部瞧不上他们，呼为“室韦”。如今呼伦贝尔还有室韦镇和室韦口岸。蒙古（蒙兀）正是室韦中的一支。所以辽、元上溯，都能指到鲜卑，都曾是拓跋部的手下败将。那么拓跋鲜卑发源于哪里？大兴安岭的大鲜卑山嘎仙洞。后来他们迁徙到了水草丰美的呼伦湖一带，才慢慢发达起来。</p>
<p>成吉思汗统一蒙古诸部之前，主要也活动在呼伦贝尔附近。他相爱相杀的兄弟扎木合，就是在黑山头称汗的。蒙元其兴也勃焉，其亡也忽焉，最后刚巧覆灭在室韦祖先的龙兴之地。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y6fz13h1f3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 呼伦贝尔方位</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
<h3 id="海拉尔">​海拉尔</h3>
<p>海拉尔在蒙古语里是“野韭菜”的意思，因过去海拉尔河两岸长满了野韭菜。当地人也确实喜欢韭菜花，司机每次吃饭都往饭里加韭菜花调料，腌得很咸。</p>
<p>海拉尔本身可玩的地方不多，海拉尔森林公园和世界反法西斯战争纪念园。不多停留，向北进入草原。​</p>
<div class="admonition note"><p class="admonition-title">一点发现</p>
<p>沿途能看到好多烂尾旅游工程，都是查贪腐时连官带商一起撸掉的。</p>
</div>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y6cOMxUabe.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 第一日路书</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="金帐汗草原和莫日格勒河">金帐汗草原和莫日格勒河</h3>
<p>从海拉尔北行，是莫日格勒河畔的金帐汗草原。莫日格勒河走向风骚，扭得像打了结的皮筋。路旁好多蒙古包风格主题园，经营些烧烤、射箭、滑翔机之类的项目。河曲间有大群的羊，羊粪味儿随风飘扬。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4BXUJUub2.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莫日格勒河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4C5JuMg50.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莫日格勒河河曲</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4BY6xNn69.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莫日格勒河畔的羊群</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4BYdDJF63.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莫日格勒河畔的蒙古包</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4BYiZsT83.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 莫日格勒河畔的……草原母女？</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>沿着草原公路继续北行，一路上都是辽阔的草甸。牧场之间隔着铁丝网，承保给了牧户。今年干旱少雨，草场不如盛年时漂亮。但依然青葱延绵，雄浑高旷。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4C68a4Rb5.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 金帐汗草原大路</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4C4WWKRf1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 屈曲蜿蜒的莫日格勒河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4C52Saodc.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 如茵的草甸</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4C6swekb8.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 还是如茵的草甸</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4BYPwISe6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 草甸近看</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>天气很好，通透清澈。沿途满目青翠，美不胜收。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吃</p>
<p>中午在沿途一户农户吃手把羊肉。就清水煮的羊肉，蘸韭菜花吃。并不膻，肉质细嫩。就是比较贵。</p>
</div>
<h3 id="额尔古纳">额尔古纳</h3>
<p>下午到额尔古纳市。这里建了个「亚洲第一」的湿地公园，走栈道看看、不下水坐船那种。额尔古纳河屈曲蜿蜒穿行在密林中，沉默地流向中俄边境。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CtBysP6b.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 额尔古纳湿地公园栈道</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>这个湿地公园是前任市长主持修的。园里的山顶上修了座湿地博物馆，展出一些（常见的）湿地动植物标本。另修了条木栈道，通到观景台。沿途种了不少波斯菊，花势颇盛。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4Cv2sQ72f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 额尔古纳湿地公园内的波斯菊</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4Cnr149dd.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 湿地中的额尔古纳河</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>比较知名的一处景观是一个马蹄形的江心洲。「据说」是成吉思汗马蹄所踏。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4CnwkiY98.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 马蹄岛</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>夜宿额尔古纳。这里从前有畜牧、种植、煤、林业，如今更仰赖旅游业。副作用就是物价腾踊，一顿火锅人均也要六七十，直逼一二线城市。</p>
<p>入夜后，主街霓虹辉煌，满是俄式洋葱顶建筑。四五万人的小城，恍惚如莫斯科红场。</p>
<p>[待续]</p>
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